Surfing: A Sport, Language, Lifestyle, and Religion Since the dawn of time, powerful natural phenomena such as hurricanes and distant storms have created majestic waves that grace our every shoreline. With ceaseless turmoil their seething energy has shaped our coastlines and recently, our cultures. Those lucky enough to experience the joy of riding the fluid motion of waves, are apprehended by the driving desire to forever be consumed by the pure, natural energy they extend. …
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showed last 75 words of 4235 total
…With its own unique practices, pilgrimages, and deities, surfing focuses on self-awareness and respect for nature. As a result surfing can now be compared with global religions such as Christianity and Buddhism. In conclusion, I hope those who read this ethnography shall give surfing a try themselves, perhaps benefit from what it has to offer, and ultimately become more aware of the precious world in which live. After all, God must have been a surfer.